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Skin Essentials by Mariga Blog

September 2011

Progress?

I've been reading a lovely book recently called 'Victorian Pharmacy - rediscovering forgotten remedies and recipes'. It is the companion book to the BBC TV programme and is a must for anyone interested in skincare, among other things.
Today I came across the recipe for Cold Cream as made in Victorian times and thought I would share it with you:

''Cold Cream
To smooth the skin and for the removal of makeup.

Beeswax 2oz
Jojoba oil 4oz
Almond Oil 4oz
Rose water 2oz

Melt the wax over a pan of boiling water. Remove from the heat and stir in the oils and rosewater. Allow to cool and transfer to a jar.''

To me, this recipe still stands the test of time. I would leave out the rosewater as I feel that the oils and wax would last a while without preservative if there was no water in the mix.

Compare the ingredients to Pond's Cold Cream available today:

Mineral oil, water, ceresin, beeswaz, triethanolamine, ceteth-20, fragrance, behenic acid, montan wax, cetyl alcohol, carbomer, DMD hydantoin, idopropynyl, butylcarbamate.

Well, while I have nothing against synthetic ingredients where they are proven to be more effective or more stable than their natural counterparts, I do like them to have a good reason for going in my skincare. I know which of these two recipes I prefer.

How about you?
Watch out for more gems to come from this book I think!



How to fight wrinkles

Anti-wrinkle and anti-ageing are confusingly similar terms that you will see used in the skincare industry. Effectively they mean the same thing: prevention of the signs of ageing. Anti-ageing is the more commonly used term these days as it's seen to be less 'offensive'. What neither of them mean is wrinkle removal. This common misunderstanding on the part of the consumer (fostered by marketing companies) adds up to a huge amount of wasted money for the person trying to turn back the clock.
So, can you really reduce wrinkles or is it too late when they've already made an appearance? Well, while prevention will always be better than cure there are some products and treatments that can reduce the depth of existing wrinkles.

At home:
Look for products that contain:

Vitamin A (retinol, retinyl esters). Vitamin A is scientifically proven to reduce the depth of wrinkles.

Anti-oxidants. A variety of anti-oxidants both in your diet and in your skincare helps your skin fight against free-radicals that contribute to accelerated skin ageing.

Peptides. these will increase elasticity and firmness of the skin.

AHA or enzyme exfoliators. Reduce the depth of lines by smoothing the skin's surface.

Also look for : niacinamide, carnosine, hyaluronic acid, glucosamine and epidermal growth factor.

From your skincare professional:

AHA, BHA and enzyme peels will reduce wrinkle depth.

Microdermabrasion gives great instant results, for lasting difference take a course.

LED phototherapy used in conjunction with the above boosts collagen production - the holy grail of anti-ageing.

All clinical treatments will achieve and maintain the best results when combined with the correct homecare. After all you wouldn't go to the dentist twice a year for a teeth cleaning then not brush them at home would you??

From Skin Essentials by Mariga:
Use my Overnight  Repair Cream at night to reduce current wrinkles, lines, sun spots and acne scars.
In the morning use Collagen Support Serum to give your skin all the building blocks it needs to make collagen.
Follow with SPF30 every day.


Cosmeceutical skincare - what is it?

There seems to be a buzz happening around the world of cosmeceutical skincare. I don't know why this is or who started it, some marketing company somewhere looking for a new angle for a product I assume. The fact is that cosmeceutical skincare is far from new. There have been some great products on the market for years. So, what is it, do you need it and are you already using it?
The difference between a cosmetic skincare product and a cosmeceutical skincare product is simply that 'cosmetic' refers to an ingredient that can affect only the surface appearance of the skin and a 'cosmeceutical' ingredient can affect skin function at a cellular level.
It becomes obvious from this that the cosmeceutical product is where the smart money goes. 
You may already be using a cosmeceutical product without knowing that it has a fancy scientific name! Check the claims on the advertising. Does it say 'skin appears smoother' or 'skin becomes smoother', 'lines seem reduced' or lines are reduced'? This is the basic difference between the two, one presents a temporary surface change, the other effects an actual change.
If you are unsure about any product, ask you skincare professional if the ingredients are cosmetic or cosmeceutical.
Skin Essentials by Mariga products are cosmeceuticals, so you can be sure that the money you are spending is for the ingredients that are in your product which will improve your skin, not some faux-scientific advertising campaign to make you think it can.

Not sure what category your skincare falls into? Book a skincare analysis with me to have your skin and your products professionally analysed, or ask in a comment.